Myriam Moret's Weblog

Sea, sand, sun and steak/La mer, le sable, le soleil et le steak

Posted on 4/16/2008 by Myriam Moret

Okinawa was great! After a little scare about the weather, it ended up being hot and sunny on the days that mattered. After getting used tothe scarily acurate weather forecast of  "mainland" Japan I was terrified to see that the forecast in Naha was rain for 5 days... and then realised that being in the tropics, Okinawa's weather is as unpredictable as a menauposal woman's mood.

If asian kids are the cutest, Okinawan old folks are following close as far as cuteness goes. Okinawans have the longest lifespan on earth and they grow old in crazy good shape... still going about their everyday businesses probably 'till they drop. Little old ladies (they're tiny) seem to have a permanent smile etched on there faces and also bear that air of authority that you'd expect from an Italian mama. They might be 4 feet tall but if they tell you to shut up, you'll just do it, no questions asked.

Fist night in Naha, we walked down Kokusai Dori for a place to eat. Settled for Hawaii Steakhouse. It had been a long time time we had a decent beef and Okinawa beef is famous.  The steak with veggies and a sweet sauce served with rice was good and the portions were HUGE by Japanese standards. The presence of american soldiers and their families numbers close to 50 000 and makes for a weird mix of Okinawan and american cultures (huge portions, American Village, A&Ws, Hawaii themed restaurants...) I'd hate to live in the Chatan Town-Okinawa City area, the military bases, the jets and helicos make it feel like a constant war zone and the overwhelming presence of americans in this area also gives the place the eerie feeling of being in Oklahoma rather than Okinawa.

Okinawa is fairly easy to navigate. It is a small island and you could probably drive from Cape Hedo (North) to Kyan Point (South) in 4hrs. So if you go there, just rent a car, prepare to drive on the wrong side of the car, on the wrong side of the road and turn on your wipers everytime you want to turn... and hit Road 58. The 58 covers most of the northern area and is less costly than paying 1000 JPY toll for the expressway. Plus you get to let Eric do most of the driving and you get to admire the beautiful beaches ;) and to cover the southern part just drive along highway 331 and youll see most of the stuff there is to see.

Our second steak was at 88. It was so tender we could cut it with a butter knife... which was all we had anyway! In the morning we drove to Chatan for our Intro dive. Okinawa style, the instructor was almost half an hour late as we were left roasting on the sidewalk. In we go and sign all the waivers and then she explains that decompression can give you an embolism and instantly kill you and... Eric bails out. So here I am doing my first dive with another girl who speaks NO english at all and is already halfway thru her open water course. Well, Eric got sunburned and I got to see the coral reef, some great fishes, a tiny, evil looking murene and Nemo... Ok! Maybe it was his cousin ;)

We visited another Peace memorial park on our last day there. I was raining when we got there just like at the Peace Memorial in Hiroshima. I guess faith wants me to visit memorial parks on rainy days. Japan is a war scared country and the presence of the many monuments to peace are a good measure of how most japanese don't want the horror of the past to hit humankind again. Okinawa was used by Japan as a shield against the allies in WWII. Okinawans would have all the rights in the world to hate Japanese but they chose to welcome them and do what they do best... be kind, welcoming and helpful. They do criticise the american presence, but the obvious lack of respect of many americans for the culture and people would enrage even the kindest heart.

For our last meal (in Okinawa) we wanted to stop at the restaurant in a (fake) tree on highway 331 but it was closed so we drove back to Naha and walked down Kokusai Dori. Eric wanted to go to "the place with the flaming torches" Turns out there is 2 and we weren't thinking of the same place. We checked his place and the menu didn't look so great so ended up at the other one, Sam's. At Sam's they cook your meal on a hot plate in the table and they give quite a show... and you guessed it, we had steak yet again, with rock lobster and massive crab legs, smoking shrimp cocktails, flaming "volcano" rice and cocktails with parrots picks and lion shaped glass. The steak was delicious and it was great to have the show and all the cheesy stuff that goes with that kind of meal.

I'm putting all my pics together and be back with more from Okinawa. I'm leaving you with pics from Hiroshima, Miyajima and Himeji.

*******************************************

Okinawa c'étais génial! Après une petite peur à propos de la météo, il a fait beau et ensoleillé tout les jours qui comptais. Quand on est habitué aux prévisions météo impécables de l'Ile principale, le fait qu'ils annoncaient 5jrs de pluie a Naha m'a un peu terrifiée... jusqu'a ce que je comprenne qu'étant dans les tropiques, la température d'Okinawa est a peu près aussi prévisible que l'humeur d'une femme ménauposée.

Si les enfants Japonnais sont les plus cute, les personnes agées d'Okinawa suivent de près dans l'échelle du cute. Les Okinawais on l'espérance de vie la plus longue sur la planète et ils viellissent dans une forme incroyable... continuant de faire leur petits trucs de tout les jours probablement jusqu'a ce qu'ils tombent mort de viellesse. Les petites vielles (elle sont minuscules) semblent avoir un sourir permanent dans le visage mais aussi un air d'autorité qu'on s'attendrais à voir chez une mama Italienne. Même si elles mesurent 4 pieds si elles vous disent de vous taire, voua allez vous taire sans poser de questions.

Première nuit à Naha, on a marché un peu sur Kokusai Dori pour trouver une place ou manger et on s'est arrêté sur Hawaii Steakhouse. Il y avais longtemps qu'on avait mangé du boeuf décent et le boeuf d'Okinawa est célèbre. Le steak avec des légumes sautés dans un sauce un peu sucrée étais bon et les potions étais énormes selon les standards japonnais. La présence militaire américaine, incluant leur familles se chiffre a près de 50 000 individus et cause un étrange mélange de cultures américaines et Okinawaise (portions énormes, American Village, A&W, restaurants au theme Hawaien...) Je détesterais vivre dans la région de Chatan et Okinawa City. Les bases militaires, les jets, les hélicos font qu'on se croierais en pleine guerre et la présence étouffante des américains font qu'on se sent plus a Oklahoma qu'a Okinawa.

L'ile d'Okinawa est assez facile a visiter. C'est une petite ile et on pourrais probablement se rendre de Cape Hedo, au nord jusqu'à Kyan Point au sud en 4 heures. Donc si vous visitez Okinawa, louez une voiture, préparez-vous a conduire du coté "passager", du mauvais côté de la route et a partir vos essuie-glace à chaque fois que vous voulez tourner... et prenez la route 58. La 58 couvre presque toute la partie nord de l'ile et reviens pas mal moins cher que de payer 1000 yen pour prendre l'autoroute payante. Et si vous laissez Eric conduire la majeure partie du temps, vous pouvez admirer les plages et le paysage. ;) Pour le sud prenez la 331 et vous verrez presque tout ce qu'il y a à voir.

Notre second steak fut au restaurant 88, il étais tellement tendre qu'on le coupais avec un couteau à beurre, qui étais tout ce qu'on avais de toute façons! Ce matin là, nous nous sommes rendus à Chatan pour Intro à la plongée. Dans le style d'okinawa, l'instructeure étais en retard de presque 1/2 heure et en attendant on cuisait sur le perron. On entre, signe les décharges et elle nous explique que la décompression peut causer une embolie et vous tuer instatanément... et Eric se retire de l'aventure. Me voilà donc a faire ma première plongée avec une fille qui ne parle AUCUN anglais et qui est déja rendue à la moitié de sa certification. Eric a attrapé un coup de soleil pendant que moi je visitais les récifs de corail, je rencontrais des poissons géniaux ainsi qu'une petite murène à l'air diabolique et Nemo... ou un de ses cousins :)

La dernièere journée, nous avons visité un autre parc dédié à la paix construit sur le site de la Bataille d'Okinawa. Il pleuvais un peu comme lorqu'on a visité le parc de la paix à Hiroshima. On dirais que le destin veut que je visite les Monuments pour la paix les jours pluvieux. Le Japon est un pays marqué par la guerre et la présence des nombreux monument pour la paix est une bonne mesure de combien la plupart des japonnais ne veulent pas voir les horreurs du passé affecter l'humanité encore une fois. Okinawa a servi au Japon de bouclier contre les alliés pendant la 2ième guerre mondiale. Les Okinawais auraient toutes les raisons du monde de détester les autres Japonnais mais ils ont choisi de les acceuillir et de faire ce qu'ils font le mieux. Etre gentils, acceuillant et aidant. Ils critiquent la présence américaine souvent, mais le manque flagrant de respect pour la culture et les gens de beaucoup d'américains enragerais même les plus pacifiques.

Pour notre dernier repas (sur Okinawa) on voulais aller à un restaurant dans un (faux) arbre géant sur la 331 mais c'étais fermé alors on s'est rendu à Naha, sur Kokusai Dori. Eric voulais aller à "la place avec du feu", evidement il y en à 2 et on ne pensais pas du tout à la même place. 1er stop à l'endroit qu'Eric avais en tête mais le menu n'étais pas des plus inspirant donc on s'est rendu à l'autre endroit, Sam's. Chez Sam, ils font cuire votre repas devant vous sur une plaque construite à même la table, c'est assez spectaculaire et vous aurez deviné... on a encore mangé du steak, avec du homard, des pattes de crabe énormes, un cocktail de crevettes "fumant". du riz flambé "volcano", des cocktails avec des perroquets et un verre en forme de lion. Le tout étais délicieux et c'étais cool de vivre tout le kitch qui viens avec ce genre de repas.

Je démele mes photos et je vous reviens avec d'autres histoires d'okinawa. En attendant je vous laisse sur des images de Hiroshima, Miyajima et Himeji.

Kyoto-Hiroshima 200blog.jpg

Atomic Dome, one of the only building that was left standing after the A-bomb exploded over Hiroshima on August 6, 1945 killing 140 000 people instantly and more than 60 000 in the years following. The building has been preserved as a reminder of the lives lost and to show how important it is to prevent another nuclear war at all cost. The neighbouring museum tell the stories of the  A-bomb, thousands of survivors who suffered malformations and unknown diseases and of the means that can be taken to avoid another such tragedy.

Le Dome atomique. Un des seuls buildings qui est resté debout aprés que la bombe A eut explosé au dessus d'Hiroshima le 6 aout 1945, tuant 140 000 personnes intantanément et plus de 60 000 dans les années suivantes. Le batiment à été préservé à la mémoire des vies perdues et afin de démontrer l'importance de prévenir un autre guerre nucléaire à tout prix. Le musée avoisinnant raconte l'histoire de la bombe atomique, celle des milliers de survivants qui ont souffert de malformations et de maladies inconnues et aussi ennonce les moyens à prendre pour éviter un autre tragédie du genre.

Kyoto-Hiroshima 224blog.jpg

Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki. It looks a bit of a mess but was quite tasty. An entire street is dedicated to Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima but be sure that we chose the dive where only locals dare to go to have ours. The place was a mess but the cooking corner was clean and the cook makes it all right in front of you. The other kind is Osaka style where they mix everything together instead of layering the ingredients like this one.

Okonomiyaki style d'Hiroshima. Ça à l'air d'une bouette mais c'est très bon. Il y a une rue entière dédiée aux Okonomiyaki a Hiroshima mais soyez assurez qu'on a trouvé le trou ou seuls les locaux osent aller pour essayer la notre. L'endroit était tout en désordre mais le coin cuisine était propre et le cuisiner fait tout en face de nous. L'autre style c'est celui d'Osaka ou touts les ingrédients sont mélangés ensemble au lieu d'en étages comme celui-ci.

MiyajimaMar 2008 011blog.jpg

Miyajima Island. Those little deers are EVERYWHERE...  They own the place and chase tourists to eat pamplets, maps and just about anything that hangs out of people's pockets. They came running when we got out the boat.

L'ile de Miyajima. Ces petits cerfs sont PARTOUT... Il sont les roi de la place et courent apres les tourites pour manger le pamphlets, les cartes et n'importe quoi qui dépassent des poches des gens. Ils sont arrivées en courant quand on est descendu du bateau.

MiyajimaMar 2008 133blog.jpg

The famous "floating torii" of Miyajima. It is the entrance to the temple which is on stilts. At high tide, the temple is surrounded by waters. Monks used to enter the temple by boats going through the torii.

La célèbre "torii flottante" de Miyajima. C'est la porte d'entrée du temple qui est bati sur pilottis. A marée haute, le temple est entouré d'eau. Dans le passé, les moines accedaient au temple par bateau en passant la "porte".

A wedding at the temple in Miyajima.

Un mariage au temple à Miyajima

MiyajimaMar 2008 017blog.jpg

Himeji Castle. Unlike most other castles in Japan, Himeji was never destroyed in wars. The current form dates from 1601 thanks again to Ieyasu who granted it to one of his generals who undertook major improvments. It has since then been kept in pristine condition. The castle is huge and climbng up the narrow stairs is not exactly old folks and handicapped friendly. Remember it is a keep, you want to visit Himeji, better be in at least average shape. There is a whole story about Ninjas and Himeji that Eric will probably share with joy and way better than me so next time you see him, you have something to ask.

Le chateau d'Himeji. Au contraire de la plupart des autres chateaux du Japon, Himeji ne fut jamais détruit dans une guerre. Sa forme présente date de 1601 grace encore une fois, à Ieyasu qui le donna a un de ses généraux. Ce dernier entrepris des travaux majeurs d'aggrandissement et d'amélioration. Depuis, le chateau à été gardé dans une condition impécable. Le chateau est enorme et monter les escaliers étroits n'est pas exactement conçu avec les personnes agées et les handicapés en tête. Souvenez-vous que c'est un chateau-fort. Si vous voulez visiter Himeji vous devez être au inimum en forme moyenne. Il y a toute une histoire a propos des Ninjas et Himeji qu'Eric se fera surement une joie de partager et il racontera ça surement mieux que moi alors vous savez quoi lui demander si vous le croisez.

MiyajimaMar 2008 087blog.jpg

Himeji city from the top of the castle.

La ville d'Himeji  vue du haut du chateau.


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